Saturday, January 10, 2009

Are you a Rocker, a Minimalist or a Dandy?

One of the great things about living next to Soho is the ability to shop its gorgeous streetscape early in the day before the madness begins. It's especially gratifying in January when the tourists throngs are sparse, the service is high and the prices are low. 

I wandered into three of my favorite menswear stores to look for my perfect pair of casual everyday shoes. In Soho I went to J. Lindberg, John Varvatos and on lower 5th Avenue, Paul Smith; I had to be in the Union Square area for something else. Each experience offered something different with some more successful than others.

It seems as though every retailer these days is selling a big idea that extends past their category. Perfect case in point, Anthopologie, the womenswear and home goods retailer that sells dresses, dishes and children's coloring books alongside one another. Paul Smith was the most similar to this experience. The clothes are always amazing in that store but equally as interesting were the books, furniture and other goods that captures the spirit of Paul Smith – the eccentric English gentleman. I have my eye on a pair of sneakers there but I also found a set of plates that I liked; one of them would look great on my media shelf. I wanted to buy pretty much everything at Paul Smith. Hopefully one day my budget will allow that to happen. 

J. Lindberg was the most disappointing of the three. I love his clothes – great tailoring and fabrics. But the store itself is kinda boring and nondescript. The products came off a lot more junky and I didn't get a sense for what J. Lindberg stands for. Even the price points were a little all over the place. To me, Tretorn does a better job of communicating stylish Swedish minimalism. The experience hasn't soured me on J. Lindberg but in such a competitive retail environment, the store needs thinning out and smarting up. 

John Varvatos rocks, in more ways than one. The brand is all about rock-and-roll – well, successful rock-and-rollers not garage bandmembers – and you see it infused everywhere. Iggy Pop leaps off the wall. Mini stage-lights shine down on glossy jeans, furry jackets and quality shoes that manage to look old and new. There isn't much curation; the emphasis is on the clothes. In many ways, Varvatos speaks for the American Dandy, rooted in music and a bit rough around the edges. 

I want to check out his new store closer to me in the old CBGBs. That space has special memories for me. In college, I saw Human League there with a friend of mine; it was one of my first concerts. Great times. From what I've seen, he did a great job of converting the space. He also has more room to add some curation to the mix. Look forward to seeing what's important to John Varvatos.

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